EPHESUS: The Ultimate Guide to Gluten-Free Travel

We decided on this cruise mainly because our friends raved about Ephesus in Turkey (continent of Asia) and I’ve always had a soft spot for Biblical sites. So, we set off from the port of Kusadasi to experience the wonders of Ephesus thirty miles away.

Initially, my enthusiasm took a dip—Ephesus didn’t look like much at first glance. But as we approached the marble streets between the hills, the grandeur of this ancient metropolis started to reveal itself. The city walls are high up on the hills so it is likely they will discover more buildings in this only 55% reclaimed site. From what has been excavated, it became clear why Ephesus was a heavyweight contender in the ancient world.

The main thoroughfare was flanked by columns that once boasted flames at night. Imagine the ambient glow! We passed by public restrooms where men could enjoy a stone seat that was pre-warmed by a servant. Nearby, temples celebrated high-profile guests like Mark Antony and Cleopatra, while the opulent terrace houses—think the ancient equivalent of Beverly Hills—stood as symbols of affluence.

At the end of the street stood the breathtaking facade of the Library of Celsus, a two-story marvel that once housed 12,000 scrolls. Turning right, we followed the path to the market and the original route to the port, which is now six miles away due to silt buildup. This unfortunate shift in geography caused the 250,000 inhabitants to abandon this city to earthquakes and stray cats.

Next up was the grand theater, which seats a whopping 24,000 people. The acoustics are so stellar that even a whisper carries, making microphones unnecessary. Recently, performers like Sting, Pavarotti, and Gloria Gaynor have graced this stage. Saint Paul, however, didn’t get his chance to shine here; a jealous idol maker stirred up a riot, sending him packing. Instead, Paul opted for a letter to the Ephesians—possibly the ancient equivalent of getting the last word. Not to be outdone, Saint John, the Madonna Mary, and Saint Luke also called Ephesus home at various times.

After our historical odyssey, we returned to Kusadasi for lunch at Kazim Asta seaside restaurant. The mezze plate was a gluten-free dream come true, featuring roasted beets, artichokes, fava beans, and roasted eggplant. Meanwhile, my husband, the devoted carnivore, devoured lamb kebabs served with vegetables on the side instead of on the skewer, and a piece of naan-like bread for wrapping.

Most restaurants seem to have an English version of their menu, but it helps to be prepared with some gluten-free planning. There are helpful sites like: https://www.glutenfreemrsd.com/2010/06/eating-gluten-free-in-turkey/, https://thesightseeingcoeliac.blog/2022/10/16/gluten-free-must-eats-in-turkey-where-to-find-local-cuisine-the-sightseeing-coeliac/, https://istanbulfood.com/gluten-free-eating-in-istanbul/, and https://www.glutenfreeadventures.net/en/celiac-travel-card-in-turkish/.

I’ll leave the details of our bazaar escapades to the imagination, but let’s just say the “no pressure to buy” sales pitch was not entirely accurate. “Brother, brother, come look”. One shop offered Turkish Delight on steroids—think caramel fillings and crushed nut toppings. Naturally, I had to snag some of these gluten-free treats. Unfortunately, gluten-free does not always mean sugar-free (sad face emoji).

I wasn’t sure what to expect of Turkey, but this seaside town that draws Turks from all over is a delight for foreigners as well.