GIBRALTAR: Gluten Less, Travel More
What I knew about Gibraltar could fit into an area the size of…well, Gibraltar. I always imagined it as a lone island bobbing off somewhere in the Mediterranean, but it turns out this little chunk of land is actually a peninsula clinging to the southern tip of Spain like a stubborn barnacle. And it’s not just any old rock—it’s a British Overseas Territory, which means it’s been a tiny bit of Britain on the edge of Europe since the Treaty of Utrecht in 1713, much to the chagrin of Spain.
You see, Spain would very much like Gibraltar back, thank you very much, and things haven’t exactly been cozy between the neighbors—especially post-Brexit. Now, the good folks of Gibraltar, 99% of whom voted to stay in the European Union, have to deal with border checks that make getting into Spain feel like trying to sneak into an exclusive club.
This longing of Spain to reclaim Gibraltar isn’t exactly a new thing. Back in 1776, while the British were busy across the Atlantic dealing with a bunch of rebellious American colonists, Spain decided it was the perfect time to lay siege to Gibraltar. The Brits, being resourceful as ever, carved out tunnels in the “notch” of the Rock of Gibraltar, sticking cannons in strategic spots that gave them a great view of the harbor and an even better shot at any invading ships.
These same tunnels, by the way, were dusted off and put to good use again during World War II when the Brits needed to fend off yet another threat.
After a tour of these historic tunnels, which are pretty impressive if you’re into that whole “surviving a siege” kind of thing, we decided to skip the free lunch back on the boat. I mean, who goes to a foreign country and passes up a chance to taste the local cuisine? So, off we went in search of something a bit more authentic and found ourselves in a lively plaza filled with cafes. I didn’t have time or transport to make it to the suggestions on https://www.findmeglutenfree.com/, but fortunately one can happen along GF options as we did.
We opted for the mixed paella (naturally GF), naively thinking we’d get a seafood feast, but instead, we were served a hearty mix of ham and chicken. Not quite the ocean’s bounty we expected, but it was tasty and had a distinct tomatoey twist. The portion could’ve easily fed three, but we bravely powered through, even if it was a bit different from the paella I’m used to making back home.
Post-paella, we wandered down a pedestrian shopping street. Even though Gibraltar is officially British (you can’t miss the Union Jacks fluttering about), the place felt more Spanish to me, probably because around 9,000 plus Spaniards cross the border daily to work there. We did stumble across a Marks and Spencer, where I picked up some not particularly great dairy-free chocolate, but didn’t see any GF pastries among their selection
So, Gibraltar—a tiny place with a big history, a complicated present, and a culinary scene that’ll keep you guessing. And if you ever find yourself there, enjoy the history and some of the gluten-free options.
